After battling for years with insecurities about my hair's length and texture, and even becoming a self-proclaimed "weavologist," I realized that I had never stopped to question, or even consider that there might be another way of living and seeing myself. Even after learning how detrimental these hair processes are to black women physically, mentally, and emotionally it still took some time before I could gather the courage to take that step for myself towards becoming a happier, healthy, more authentic me. Now that I'm on the other side, I hope to offer to anyone who cares to consider an alternative that for me has been well worth the struggle.
I do not condemn those who choose to wear weaves or relax their hair, because after all that was me a couple of years ago [natural for 27 months whoop whoop!!]. However, I do encourage anyone who like me, never even questioned the insanity that (most often) is relaxed hair to consider the following arguments for why you should make the change.
1. Being natural is healthier for your hair and skin.
It's no secret that hair relaxers contain harsh chemicals that are essentially acids that break down your hair's natural texture taking with it vital proteins and moisture. Yes, many of us may walk out of the salon (or kitchen/living/bathroom) with a fresh perm- hair silky smooth and whatnot, but what about a few weeks, or washes later when the artificial shine of the oil sheen or (insert other crude oil based product) wears off, and the flat irons have taken their toll? For many of us, sooner or later the breakage begins leaving bits of hair all over the shoulders, in our combs- not to mention the traumatic shampooing experiences in which we try desperately to untangle huge knots of dead, broken hair. How many of us remember days of having long, or at least healthy hair that didn't fall out at alarming rates? How many of us have run our fingers over our scalps finding scabs left by chemical burns? And, despite the number of greases, pomades, and other "magical potions" our growth stunted by the no-lye vicious cycle of hair havoc. Even those who manage to avoid dramatic hair loss, ever wonder why your hair never seems to grow longer? Granted, not everyone's experience is so bad but think about it. Is the "payoff" really worth the destruction?
Even for those of us who go the "old school" route of pressing, or flat ironing our naps and curls into submission, repeatedly burning one's curls out poses a serious threat to ever getting them back (I'm talking to my type 3a texture sisters). The sizzle we hear from a searing hot comb or iron as we straighten along with that all too familiar smell are evidence of damage that lasts far longer than our "silky" dos.
And what do we do once our damaged hair is no longer "presentable," or up for the everyday wear and tear? Out come the weaves, wigs, and extensions, which wreak their own havoc on what remains. How many strands does the glue take with it? How many bald spots and/or destroyed hairlines must we have to suffer with? As an exercise I dare you to go out and take a look around at the sea of damaged hair, split ends, and bad weaves out there, but perhaps one need look no further than the mirror...
Bottom line: natural hair doesn't fall out every time you run your fingers or a comb through it; chemical and weave free scalps don't inch incessantly requiring us to pat our brains out, or carry around rat tail combs to "get up in there," and it certainly does not cause burns on our ears, scalps, and foreheads.
2. Natural hair is more economical.
Ok so Chris Rock's movie "Good Hair," informed us that the black hair care industry is a multi-billion (yes, billion) dollar a year industry. Let's ask ourselves what our communities and households could do with the thousands of dollars we spend on touch-ups, weaves, and other anti-kink processes and products? When we find ourselves at the constant mercy of salons, and/or often non-Black owned hair stores and product lines we must ask ourselves are these really proper, or better yet wise economic investments?
Believe it or not natural hair gets along just fine without the help of a stylist or a shelf full of products. Besides many of the products promising shiny, moisturized, growing hair and itch free scalps are little more than colored and scented petroleum jelly and other useless, if not harmful, ingredients that weigh hair strands and follicles down as they cannot be absorbed through the skin. The truth is healthy, naturally sheen-ful, growing hair begins from within from the foods we eat and the amount of water we drink (and not killing it with harmful straightening processes). For many women going natural is away of re-learning or learning how to take care their natural hair, and few would contest it's economically liberating effects as a million and one products (unless you're a product junkie, but that's a different story) are no longer necessary and self sufficiency reigns as many become do-it-yourselfers. Think about what you could do with the spare money, or about the fact the people of other hair types spend next to nothing while we spend BILLIONS... Is it fair, or rational? Isn't it time to start asking "what's on your head?" and "what's in your wallet?"
3. Natural (healthy) hair is beautiful.
Equally as important as 1 & 2, I argue that the very assumption that naturally kinky or curly hair is bad or something that must be done away with by the teen years and every six to eight weeks following is in dire need of questioning and rethinking. Who said that the way our creator- be it God, or evolutionary forces made us wrong or inadequate? And why do we from the most educated and esteemed Black women to the "around the way girl" still believe that? If we hold that straight hair be it natural, chemically or otherwise ascertained is "good" or necessary for social acceptability than surely we are also saying (and justifying others in suggesting) that our natural tresses are not good enough, unattractive, or otherwise unacceptable. Do you really believe that? If so, why? Who is your ideal of beauty does she naturally occur in nature? Is she your color? Is she realistic?
I think it's time to ask why more of our representations of beauty do not look like us, or even themselves underneath the wigs, weaves, perms, makeup, and retouching. What are our little girls learning from their dolls and favorite TV personalities and stars? Is it the same thing we learned that "they" are beautiful with their long shiny locks and we can only measure up if ours is a long and flowy too? Why do we insist on being something we're simply biologically not? Since deciding to put down the perms I have changed the way I see my natural texture. It is no longer a problem. It is beautiful because it is a part of me and my heritage.
4. Going natural is a sign of self acceptance and esteem.
Following from the last point, the decision to go natural tends to coincide with feelings of increased confidence and self-esteem precisely because one begins to reject the perhaps long held view that the only beautiful and/or acceptable hair is that naturally occurring in non-Black peoples, and begins to deal with and eventually smile at the look and feel of one's natural state.
When you no longer carry the insecurities of having short and/or kinky hair, or the feel the need to hide (or attempt to hide) your chemically or otherwise damaged hair under weaves and wigs something magical happens- feelings of liberation run rampant and one can finally fully be oneself in a sense - minus the pretense, insecurities, and optical illusions and lies. Continuing to relax one's hair knowing full well the health and other considerations says the exact opposite- that you care so deeply and are so afraid of what others will think if you make a change that you are willing to bankrupt and/or bald yourself in the name of...?
5. Wearing natural hair shows one's racial pride.
Related to the last point, the move towards "napturality" can also signal a host of what I think of as transformative statements about Blackness or non-Whiteness in general. Most importantly that we exist and are validated in our natural form particularly as women. We do not have to assimilate in order to be accepted (especially seeing as how hair straightening hasn't exactly done wonders in the social or economic equality or equity departments)
The now mythical 1960s and 70s era proclamations that "Black is Beautiful!" attested by the throngs of Blacks sporting Afros and magazines like Essence and Ebony shifting to reflect those images of Black beauty are testaments to this point. Although unfortunately the Afro proved largely a fad of the time, the act of so many Blacks rejecting the hot comb and conk undoubtedly served as a visual representation to "mainstream" America that Blacks were in many ways reclaiming their identities as descendants of Africa, who did not have to conform to Eurocentric standards of beauty and acceptability.
6. Wearing one's natural hair is form of political activism.
Taking the last point a little further, once one accepts the oppressive nature of hair straightening in terms of health, economics, self-image, etc making the decision to go natural can be understood as a political statement. For many people the act of wearing one's natural is way of saying "to hell with the system of mental colonization that strips us of our dignity, money, and awareness of continuous forms of oppression felt not only by Black women, but women and people all over the world."
As far as mental colonization goes, I believe that the deeply entrenched allegiance many Black women have for straight, long hair is evidence of a long established inferiority complex developed alongside the slave trade in order to dehumanize Blacks while exulting the beauty and virtues of Whites.
In their book, "Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America," authors Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps discuss the history of Black hair before, during, and after the slave trade. From traditional west African hair rituals and styling and the struggles of slaves to cover their ill-kept crowns (think Aunt Jemima) to the first straightening methods and conks all the way up to today's weaves and continued struggles over hair, the authors shed light on a long sordid history steeped in racism and internalized oppression. Did you know that some slaves died trying to straighten their hair and even started "training" their kid's hair as early as infancy (Byrd & Tharps 13-8)? Let's face it, Black people have been being told (both direct and indirectly) since the days of slavery that our skin and hair is ugly and not good enough. Though are continued attempts at altering the former, our hair has proven easier to change. And arguably, the farther we get from that history the easier it has become for us to divorce it from our current behaviors. However, I think that by continuing down this path we are still buying into that set of beliefs and are therefore still mentally enslaved by these insecurities.
Also, after seeing the Chris Rock movie (as shallow as it was), I couldn't help seeing '18" Goddess Indian Remy' on all the impoverished women I saw living in streets with their children. For women around the world who knowingly and unknowingly sacrifice and/or sell their hair to survive, or to give thanks to God as well as those who continue to worship at the altar of faux tresses - who is controlling these markets that leave both groups wholly oppressed and/or robbed of their dignity.
Another thing is that in the past Black hair care was extremely lucrative for African Americans from Madame C.J. Walker to George E. Johnson African American entrepreneurs were able to empower their communities by growing wealth and employing fellow Blacks. However, over the past 30 years the Black hair care market has shifted from being Black dominated to African American owned businesses holding down only a small share of the market these days. Did you know that the once Black-owned Soft-Sheen (Carson) company (think Dark & Lovely) has been owned by L'Oreal since 1998, and up until 2009 Johnson hair care products (Ultra Sheen aka "da blue grease") was owned by Proctor & Gamble until a group Black investment firms finally bought it back?
By going natural I believe that one is empowered to make the mental, economic, and political decision to fight against these processes of disempowerment and subjugation. Can you tell by reading this point that my decond degree was in African American and African Studies
7. Natural hair can be versatile, manageable, and "professional."
On a different note, one of the major arguments I've heard and believed for a time was that in "today's world" afro textured hair is undesirable because "you can't do anything with it," "it's too hard to manage," and the worst it's simply "not professional." Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but I think that these reasons are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG! First, I think that many people fall into the trap of believing this nonsense because many of us never learned how to take care of our natural hair. After we got 'too old' bows, barrettes, and cornrows- out came the perms.
No, natural Black hair is not like naturally straight hair or even relaxed hair, and therefore it requires a different set of techniques to take care of it. Using these excuses to continue to justify relaxing foregoes the possibility of experimentation and faith in one's natural hair. For the tens of thousands (if not millions) of naturals out there are a wide variety of styles, styling techniques, products, and resources available to help women figure out what to do with their natural hair. Naturals rock everything from relatively 'high' maintenance updos and twist-outs to 'low' maintenance dreads and fros everything in between. And, I'm sure they've learned how to achieve these looks without tons of money, pain, or stress.
On the professionalism issue, if we've learned anything from the aforementioned points we know that as emancipated, free, and beautiful individuals we have every right to command respect through our confidence and worthiness as human beings, and that we owe it to ourselves and our ancestors to continue the fight for social equality by standing up for ourselves. However lofty as this sounds, I believe that 1) times are changing and that African American professionals are freer (in some respects) than ever before to express their heritage through their hair choices, and 2) if you as your authentic (not unkept) self are denied a position or let go because of your hair you have two choices a) resign that you could not ever work for a company that views you as less than because of how you were born and move on or b) fight the power and take them down! There have been many notable court cases over this very issue with some have positive outcomes in forging a way for today's naturals. Notice how change yourself wasn't an option?
As the famous Marcus Garvey quote goes, "Remove the kinks from your mind, not your head."
8. Natural hair is touchable.
This might not be a big selling point for many, but I LOVE the idea that I and whoever I permit can touch my hair freely, without worrying about tracks, glue, brittleness, or any of it coming out lol. In fact, since I've gone natural I can't seem to stop touching my hair. Its super soft, and I love to play with it - a little too much- I'm getting better though... I think lol no I am lying.lol
9. You'll never have to avoid rain, pools, or sweat again.
This one is SOOOOO important. Rule #1 of the relaxer/hot comb commandments as we all know is "Thou shall not get thy hair wet." Recent studies even suggest that this rule is a contributing factor to poor health in Black women. We exercise less because we don't want to 'sweat out' our hairdos. Ladies, ladies, ladies (In my Nephew Tommy Voice.lol) water is not the enemy- we are! In fact, for naturals, water is our hair's best friend. Our hair desperately needs water in order to thrive and grow. As I stated before healthy hair starts from within, but spritzing your hair with water daily gives it malleability and moisture it needs and makes for easier combing, styling, and less breakage. And washing at least once a week is the key to growing, flowing hair- not weighing it down with tons of product, and pulling it out with chemicals, glue, and extensions!
Furthermore, think about the day when no little girl, or woman for that matter, has to spend the summer just getting her feet wet for fear of messing up her hair - or having breakdowns at the sight of rain. Having natural hair means no longer fearing H2O- after all our bodies are made up of 70 percent of it, so it has to be good right?
10. There is a growing network of support.
Lastly, but certainly not least, when I initially started my journey I did a lot of digging around on the internet. I found lots of websites, blogs, and youtube channels dedicated to natural hair and locs, but I couldn't help but notice how many women shared journeys and experiences just like mine- the only difference was that for many, when they 'went natural' the online community was either just beginning or was nonexistent. Today's new naturals have a whole support system available to us via the web, so we can learn from others mistakes, mishaps, styles, techniques, tools, products, as well as personal experiences and growth. There is a literally a world of women out there who have rejected to the lies about our hair, and who have embraced a new way of life. With the help of the World Wide Web women across the country as well as around the world have been able to share their journeys through slideshows and video updates and document their progress as naturals. Many of these women are living proof that given the proper care regiments, natural black hair grows, and is truly versatile and beautiful.
Many of these bloggers, you tubers, and others made the change later into their 20s, 30s, and 40s but just imagine if more of our generation's women embraced this movement and made it a lifestyle choice, the message we could send to our little sisters, nieces, cousins, and even our parents - as well as to corporate America - that we are our best, brightest, most beautiful selves and darn proud of it! Women who have already committed to this change have lives, careers, husbands/wives, and enough sense to know that 'it's just hair,' but enough courage to admit that for them the decision to go natural has meant so much more. Finally, everyone's reasoning and timing is different these are just some of the reasons I had.
Below is just a short list of academic resources and links to the growing online community. I sincerely hope that if you even skimmed this, you come away at least questioning if not considering new possibilities.
Resources:
Banks, Ingrid. Hair Matters: Beauty, Power, and Black Women's Consciousness. London: NYU Press, 2000
Bellinger, Whitney. "Why African American Women Try to Obtain 'Good Hair'" Pennsylvania Sociological Society. Sociological Viewpoints, Sept. 2007. Web. 12 June 2011. a rel="nofollow" title="http://www.pasocsociety.org/bellinger.pdf" target="_blank" href="http://www.pasocsociety.org/bellinger.pdf">http://www.pasocsociety.org/bellinger.pdf>.
Byrd, Ayana, and Lori Tharps. Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. New York, New York: St. Martin's Griffin, 2001.
Caldwell, Paulette M. 2000. “A Hair Piece: Perspective on the Intersection of Race and Gender.” In Critical Race Theory: The Cutting Edge, eds. Richard Delgado and Jean Stefancie, 275-85. “Philadelphia: Temple University Press.
Dione-Rosado, Sybil. 2004. “No Nubian Knots or Nappy Locks: Discussing the Politics of Hair Among Women of African Descent in the Diaspora. A Report on Research in Progress” Transforming Anthropology. 11(2), 60-63.
Jacobs-Huey, Lanita. From the Kitchen to the Parlor: Language and Becoming in African American Women's Hair Care (Language and Gender Studies). New York: Oxford University Press, USA, 2006.
Leary, Joy Degruy. Post Traumatic Slave Syndrome: America's Legacy of Enduring Injury and Healing. New York, New York: Uptone Press, 2005, 25.
Mercer, Korbena. "Black Hair/Style Politics." New Formations 3 (1987): 33-54.
White, Shauntae B. 2005. “Releasing the Pursuit of Bouncin’ and Behavin’ Hair: Natural Hair as an Afrocentric Feminist Aesthetic for Beauty.” International Journal of Media and Cultural Politics. 1(3): 296-308.
Wingfield, Adia Harvey. Doing Business With Beauty: Black Women, Hair Salons, and the Racial Enclave Economy (Perspectives on a Multiracial America). Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc., 2009.
Online Community:
websites:
http://naturalsunshine.ning.com www.nappturality.com/ www.motowngirl.com/
www.curlynikki.com/ www.afrobella.com/ www.bglhonline.com/
http://www.coilyhair.com/ www.tytecurl.com/v02/Perle.htm http://www.afroniquelyyou.com/ www.bradelocz.com/
blogs:
www.newlynatural.com/ www.naturalhairbeauty.blogspot.com
http://thankgodimnatural.wordpress.com/ http://highlytextured.blogspot.com/
http://www.naturalnina.com/ http://www.kinnks.com/blog/
http://naturalhairforyou.blogspot.com/ http://www.nappystl.com/
YouTube Channels:
Black Onyx77’s “Natural hair is Divalicious” - love her!
Kimmaytube’s “Medium Maintenance Women” - love her!
Crownofhisglory
RusticBeauty
LoveIslandBeauty's Channel
BronzeGoddess01 -
br0nzeqt - love her!
AFR0ST0RY
SimplYounique
innerbeauty24
Longhairdontcare2011
afronique
meroekhalia
beautifulbwnbabydoll- love her
No comments:
Post a Comment