Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Natural Frustrations | I'm Not Trying to Be Erykah Badu JUST Because I am Natural!!

I was just called "Jill Scott" . I am sick and tired of all of these natural stereotypes. I went natural so that I could be myself 100%, not so that I could be stereotyped as something more or less than  me. Unlike most, I don't try to be anyone or anything.... I just AM. I am me.

Not Erykah Badu, not Lauryn Hill, Macy Gray, or Jill Scott either. It's crazy how people that wear all kind of crazy, unrealistic, weaves and wigs don't get called a different name  or stereotype as the hair changes {you know, like BECKY or HANNAH, better yet Lee Wang (although they AREN'T clearly themselves {ever}) but the moment we go natural, we're called the names of the faces that wear kinky curly hair, {although it grows out of all of our scalps in a highly textured form}. 

This is the way my hair grows. I hate how people see the one external change and it changes the entire way that I am perceived. Are we that shallow that a change in hairstyle changes how a person is seen? Yes, I do believe that my decision to go natural symbolically represents my mentality (like breaking away from the oh too familiar collective consciousness that too many engage in) but, nevertheless, I am still basically the same person, just a little more aware. Not Erykah Badu, Not little Miss Afrocentric or Miss save the planet. Just Nikki. 

          Dear World, 
 Please treat me the same as I was treated before going natural. 
Yours till death do us part, 
NaturalNikkiDST 


P.S. I'm still the same chica as before.

7 Signs You May Be Obsessed With Your Natural Hair

I found this information on CurlyNikki.com and I think that I am obessed with my hair...well all but number one.lol. When the love of your natural hair crosses the line to Obsessionville, it may be time to reevaluate some things and reprioritize. The domination of one's thoughts or feelings by a persistent idea, image, desire, etc. is the definition of obsession. Here are 7 signs that you are dangerously close:

1. You treat your hair like another human being

You often refer to your coils as "her", as if you are speaking about one of your friends and have even given them a name.

"Mahogany and I are spending some quality time together this weekend”.

2. No conversation goes by without mention of your hair
Your friends are apprehensive about even mentioning the word “hair” for fear that you will start on a natural hair tirade. You repeatedly chant India Arie’s “I Am Not My Hair” however; your afro almost always ends up being the topic of discussion. You turn something totally unrelated into a dialogue about natural hair.

Your friend: “It’s raining outside”
You: “I’m glad I’m natural, I don’t have to worry about rain”

3. You spend hour after hour perusing the Natural Hair blogs and Twitter
Your entire day is centered around the latest and greatest products or hairstyles for natural hair. You find it difficult to focus at work until you’ve had your cup of joe and done your daily natural hair blog browsing and you can’t wait to get home to your laptop in the evenings to continue.

4. You are always giving unsolicited hair advice

You are in line at Macy’s and overhear two ladies behind you talking about how damaged their hair is. You immediately turn around and start testifying about how healthy your hair is because you are natural. You then proceed to tell them that their hair will never be healthy until they make the decision to let go of the creamy crack.

5. You are like Chicago in the movie, “Poetic Justice”, walking around with your hair tool of choice so that at any given moment, you can whip it out and coif your mane.

6. You change your hairstyle several times throughout the day to showcase how versatile natural hair is. At least that's the reasoning you give but the real reaosn is you just can't keep your hands out of your hair nor your face out of the mirror.

7. You must publicly display your love for your natural hair by purchasing every natural hair t-shirt on the market.

Nothing wrong with a dose of pride about your decision to live life as a naturalista, but too much of anything is never good. BTW, after writing this, I realize I described myself in this post. ☺

Are you hair obsessed?

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Let's Talk Hair: Shedding vs Breakage..What's The Difference??

Hola Chicas/Chicos..I pray all is well with everyone..

So, this is a great topic mainly because I have had a plethora of natural lovelies inquire about their hair shedding and the assumption that natural hair does not shed..WRONG..I can attest by personal experience because everytime I take my braids out I shed like a St. Bernard whenever I wash my hair..and that's no lye :-)))

Understanding the difference between hair breakage and shedding is an important part of any healthy hair regimen. Many people use these terms interchangeably to refer to any hair that falls from the head; however, this misinformed language can be a recipe for hair disaster. You must be able to properly differentiate between these two very specific forms of hair "loss" in order to effectively address even the smallest of your hair needs. This post will educate us on the difference between hair shedding and hair breakage, and offer strategies to help you combat both hair problems.


Just What Is Shedding??

  • In its truest sense, shed hair is hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle and naturally falls from the scalp along with its tiny, white "root" attached. 
  • This is not the actual hair root that is secured deeply within your scalp, but it is the bulb root or base of the hair strand found on the scalp-originating end. 
  • It appears white because the hair stops producing melanin (color) at the point in its growth cycle right before it gets ready to fall. 
  • If your actual hair root came out along with the hair, you would no longer be able to produce hair from that same place on the scalp ever again! 
  • If a hair does not possess this white root bulb, then it is not a naturally shed hair, rather, a broken one. Shed hair tends to be longer in length than broken hairs which are generally short pieces of varying lengths.
  • In general, shedding should not be a major concern for you and should be seen as a sign of a healthy, normal, functioning scalp. There is no need to fear shedding unless it is tied to a medical issue. If you notice rapid hair loss from shedding or hair loss accompanied by a host of other problems, please consult a medical professional. Most shedding, however, is simply nature taking its course.

Shedding..Did You Know
  • You must understand that because shedding is a natural, internal process, it may not respond to topical, external treatments. Some have praised garlic shampoos or "garlic scalp rubs" for reducing shedding, but there has been no clear concensus on the effectiveness of garlic as a remedy for shedding. Shedding is also not easily solved by protein or moisture treatments because it has nothing to do with the hair shaft itself, but is a response to hormonal influences on the hair follicle and is dependent on growth cycles. When a hair completes its life cycle, which generally last s 4-6 years, its final act is the shedding we experience. This cannot be prevented.
  • Also, our hair naturally cycles in and out of seasonal shedding phases which may last days or weeks at a time in some individuals. Research suggests that peak shedding rates occur during the fall season. A healthy head of hair may shed as many as 50- 100 hairs per day, though I personally believe this amount to be a grand stretch. You should be concerned if your shedding suddenly increases to a rate that was uncommon to you before, or if the shedding seems to be prolonged over the course of several weeks or months.
  • Do keep in mind that there are special periods in the human life cycle where shedding is naturally increased. For example, women who are undergoing a bout of postpartum shedding after having a baby may have to deal with increased shedding for several months until their normal hormone levels return. Other conditions which may increase your shedding rate are: 
  • *styling methods that place stress on the follicles
  • *birth control/menstrual cycles/menopause
  • *pregnancy
  • *heredity (runs in the family)
  • *crash dieting/ low protein diets, poor diet
  • *illnesses with high fever as a prevailing symptom
Please consult with a medical professional to diagnose any prolonged, abnormal shedding or other unusual scalp conditions.

 Sooo..What is Breakage??

  • Breakage on the other hand is not natural, and is an indication of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strand. 
  • Broken hairs do not fall naturally from the head, but are typically a sign of mishandling or abuse. In the stages before a hair ultimately breaks, the hair first becomes discolored and experiences cuticle loss. Eventually, the fibers begin to split and ultimately there is breakage. 
Breakage..Did You Know??
  • So what causes breakage? Hair can be weakened and damaged by anything from rough handing and sun exposure to coloring and straightening chemicals. 
  • Breakage is also more common with a hair's age; older hairs, usually the hairs nearest the ends, have the greatest tendency to break due to normal wear and tear. 
  • When breakage isn't a response to physical manipulation and abuse, it is most often triggered by the lack of moisture in the hair strand. 
  • Other types of breakage may be caused by the over- structuring of the hair strand with protein treatments done in excess. 
  • A prompt, and proper response to breakage will help you stop breakage in its tracks. 
Breakage..Ways To Prevent It
  • Moisture: Hair needs water to maintain its elasticity, or ability to stretch. Since water is the ultimate moisturizer, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit. Moisturizers are simply products that are water-based and nourish your hair deep within the strand. Products with moisturizing properties tend to be your conditioners and other specific moisturizer sprays or creams. Moisturizers may also contain large amounts of protein, but these protein based moisturizers do not have the moisturizing benefit that moisture-based moisturizers have. Check labels to gauge protein content. Good moisturizers will not contain cheap, filler ingredients like petrolatum, mineral oil, or lanolin. Avoid products that claim moisturizing benefits and contain these ingredients. There is nothing moisturizing about them! Petrolatum and mineral oil are sealants that seal out the precious moisture our hair needs. 
  • Seal In The Moisture: Our hair naturally contains moisture, but because our hair is also naturally porous, keeping the moisture inside is a difficult task. Providing additional sources of outside moisture, or external moisture supplementation, is a must for black hair care. Water molecules and moisture from these supplemental moisturizing products easily pass into the hair shaft, but they pass out just as easily. The moisture you apply needs to held in by something. Oil. Natural oils like jojoba, olive, carrot, or coconut oil seem to work best. A light coating of oil after your daily moisturizer will help seal the moisture inside. Oils are made of large molecules. These molecules are too large to absorbed by the hair strand. Applying oils to the hair and scalp will coat them and trap the moisture that is inside on the inside and the moisture that is outside on the outside. The key is to use the oil to "lock in the moisture." If you use oils without a moisturizer or before one, the oil will seal the moisture out of the hair strand and lead to a coated feel and eventual dryness.  
  • REMEMBER! Oils DO NOT Moisturize: Perhaps a words like "nourish" would be better than moisturize. Oil alone will not and cannot moisturize within the hair shaft. An oil (grease) can only coat the outside of the strand, and give it shine- the illusion of moisture. Oil molecules are hydrophobic which means they repel and do not readily mix with water. Remember, if you apply an oil product to your hair before you have added a moisturizing product, you have created a seal on your hair strand that water and moisture cannot penetrate. This is why I always recommend using my Natty Butter on damp or wet hair..or you can use it in conjunction with a water based moisturizer like the SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie.

Naughty Hair..When Nothing Seems To Work

You handle your hair gently, you've tried the moisture, you've tried the protein . . . but nothing is working! What gives?
Well, occasionally, over the course of your new regimen, you will notice times where your hair and your breakage are simply, "unreadable" and do not respond to your attempts to treat them. Many times, hair
that does not respond to treatment is burdened with product buildup. Even the lightest products can accumulate and build up on the hair shaft rendering your moisturizing and protein replacement efforts futile. Other times, the reason hair does not respond positively to treatment is because the underlying problem has been misdiagnosed, and the wrong treatment has been applied (i.e. more protein on hair with protein overload, or more moisture on over-moisturized hair).


Sooo...What To Do??
  • Clarify: Time to clarify to remove an over abundance of product..Try the O'Natural clarifyer..the Bentonite Clay Treatment w/ ACV and Aloe Vera Gel. This wonderful natural goody does wonders with removing all things gone buildup in the hair..remember, always follow up with a deep conditioner afterwards, as clarifyers remove natural oils and moisture, so you must replenish.
  • Protein: Treat yourself to a protein treatment as well..you can do an all natural protein treatment using Coconut Milk, honey and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
  • Deep Condition with a moisture based conditioner and add honey and extra virgin olive oil for an extra burst of moisture. Place a plastic cap over your head and sit under a heat cap for 30-45 min.
  • Whew: At this point, your hair should be cleaned and conditioned and you should be able to determine whether or not your next product step needs to include more moisture or more protein.
Happy Healthy Strong Hair

credits: some info found at www.associatedcontent.com/article/278612/the_fine_art_of_protein_and_moisture.html?cat=69

Let's Talk Hair..Great items for TRANSITIONERS!!

So anywho..if you are one of those lovely naturalistas who decided against taking the plunge and doing a Big Chop or BC, this is some great info for you. I have searched blogs and forums for items and products that many transitioners favor, myself included as I remember the days that I transitioned for 16 months..only to cut it all of and begin anew..so here goes and I truly hope this helps.

My Top Picks For Transitioners:
  • Co-Washing: Since we have discovered the value of co-washing, we now need a great conditioner that's inexpensive, provides great slip, and gives us moist tresses..Right!! Well my top pick for great co-washing for transitioners is....HERBAL ESSENCE HELLO HYDRATION (it does have a few silicones, but the good news is that the silicones are water soluble and will not cause air pockets in the hair follicle..yippee)..Available at just about any drugstore
  • Detangling: Ok, this is of the utmost importance..A great detangling tool will help to minimize breakage as we know that fine line (line of demarcation) is a narrow one to tread on the road to a shower or sink full of our beautiful tresses..who want's that?? So it is a must to have a detangling tool that has wide teeth and doesn't snag. Sooo, my top pic is (drumroll please)  JILLBERE SHOWER COMB (available at Sally's beauty supply or Amazon www.amazon.com for the low low)
  • Deep Conditioning: Ok, extremely important, ladies!!! Deep Conditioning is a sure way to provide moisture and strength to your curly, coily and kinky tresses. So, a great deep conditioner is a must. My top picks are: SheaMoisture Deep Treatment Masque, Herbal Essence Hello Hydration and Avalon Organics Grapeseed and Oilive Oil conditioner). These are great for providing moisture and softness..but my fav would be the SheaMoisture Deep Treatment Masque (Target and Walmart and at both online)...ya gotta love an all natural conditioner where the top ingredients are moisture based..love it love it!
  • Special Treatments: Ok, ladies..special treatments are great to ensure strength, a clean healthy scalp and hydrated hair..So some of my favs for those special treatments that you can do anywhere from weekly to monthly are....Bentonite Clay (great for an all natural clarifyer), Henna (available at any local Indian grocery or www.mehandi.com and www.hennasooq.com), Coconut Milk (excellent for protein treatments..available at your local grocery store)..My top pick out of these would be BENTONITE CLAY (available at any health food store or grocery... I purschase mines on alikaynatural.com for $5)...This is an absolute wonderful way to clarify your hair and strengthen it without stripping the natural moisture from your hair. (Just mix Bentonite Clay, Aloe Vera Gel and ACV to the proportions of what's needed for your hair and to the consistency of pudding and apply for 15-20 minutes to damp hair, do not allow to dry, and rinse with cool water). Your hair will be so fresh and so clean clean..ahem, thanks Outkast.
  • Cool Water Rinsing: Ok..so, I know you have heard of the ever so popular and beneficial properties of rinsing with cool water..but what's even more beneficial is adding a splash of ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) to your cool water as your final rinse..The brand of ACV that gets my vote is ...BRAGG'S Raw Unfiltered APPLE CIDER VINEGAR (available in most grocery stores in the organic food section or any health food store), just 2 TBSP of ACV to 2 Cups of H2O and voila..this is actually your FINAL rinse.
  • Sealing your Tresses: Ok, so sealing your tresses are an absolute MUST.. Our ends can be the life of the party or the apple that spoils the bunch, just depending on how ya care for em'. Now there are all sorts of elements that you can seal your ends with, Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Olive Oil, Jojoba Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Shea Butter, and what have you..but the winner for me is...Oyin Handmade products Shine and define and whipped pudding. Now, from the reviews and speaking with other naturals, these products are great because it packs a lot of moisture and some wonderful beneficial ingredients at just the right amounts, all in one. It has definitely been my favorite staple product on my journey for my hair and skin.
  • Thermal Heat Cap or Huetiful Steamer or a Plain Ole Shower Cap: Ok, so we know that deep conditioning is a must for keeping those tresses moisturized and healthy, but adding a bit of heat to the deep conditioner while applied to your head is a great way to get the scalp stimulated and the pores open to receive all the goodness you have to give, you can use a thermal heat cap, a steamer or just gather those tresses into a shower cap while showering and voila!..My absolute favorite is the HUETIFUL HAIR STEAMER (www.amazon.com )..hand's down it is great for giving your hair a highly moisturized boost of natural goodness.
  • Nightly Protection: Of course, you can't say goodnight to your locks before protecting the moisture that's in them with a satin or silk scarf, satin or silk bonnet or a satin or silk pillowcase. All of these are great, but my absolute favorite is my SATIN PILLOWCASE (available at Sally's Beauty Supply for the low low). Other naturals swear by these puppies especially when they pineapple their hair (pulling all hair up to a very high ponytail similar to the look of a pineapple), and in addition to wearing either a scarf or bonnet, they say they can't live without their satin pillow...just sayin'
So, there you have it..some staple products for those who wish to keep their transitioned tresses clean, healthy and looking  Great!! I hope this helps.

Have A Happy Healthy Day!

Surviving Your First Year as an O’Natural

All naturals, even the most experienced, can look back on their first year and momentarily feel excitement, freedom, fear, hopelessness, joy and at times discouragement. Well, being that it is my year anniversary since I’ve had a relaxer and began my transition to O’Natural-hood, I thought I would make this article about your first year as a natural the focus. Being that the first year is a great milestone, I just want to say well done beautiful naturals for hanging in there. I realize, as many do, that going natural is a difficult decision and the scares and lack of social acceptance that many have met could have been enough to throw in the towel, slam the door, return to the ‘creamy crack’. But, before you give up, here is a list of support to help you on your way to your year anniversary as an O’Natural.
The List:
  • Educate Yourself: I cannot stress how important it is to research, research, research. Increasing your knowledge about your hair will prove extremely beneficial to the success of healthy beautiful natural hair. Some wonderful websites are: Nappturality, CurlyNikki, Natural Chica..just to name a few. And don’t forget about the huge library of Youtube videos. Education is KEY! 
  • Experiment:Have fun with your O’Natural. Again, the huge library of Youtube videos were absolute lifesavers for me in expressing new styles to rock my hair. The sad fact is that many of us never learned how to ‘Properly’ take care of our natural coils, kinks and curls. Learn what product works best for YOU. Sure there are hundreds of products that promise to do this or do that, but before you get too wrapped up and have to attend PJ Annonymous(Product Junkyism), stick to what your hair likes and know that what may work for one natural may not work for you..and that’s ok. Experiement with styles that fit you best..if you don’t have the head for a fro hawk..that’s ok, rock a twist out..Trust me, you will soon master your routine and what hairstyles work for you. 
  • Find A Support System: Going natural is not always a decision supported by our close ones. I can’t tell you how many stories I have heard from many naturals whose families, spouses or friends didn’t support their journey into natural hood. Comments like, ‘nappy-headed’ ‘bald headed’ kinka bugs’ ‘you’ll never get a job looking like that’ ‘men don’t like nappy hair’ etc. etc..almost caused many of them hold up the white flag. Therefore, it is of utmost importance to find individuals who share your same story and can offer support and comfort you when needed. And it’s always exciting to begin a new venture when surrounded by like minds. Remember, there are online communities that offer tons of support when you need it. I must say I have met some awesome people who are also on this journey to Natural-ville. 
  • Document:It is sooo much fun to document your progress and later look back on it. Many naturals document on facebook, other natural blog sites and/or on youtube. Documenting your journey will help you realize that your hair is growing even when you think that it is not. It also helps you see where the health of your hair was and where it is currently. 
  • Be Optimistic: Keep negativity to a minimum. Sometimes, it may be necessary to tell someone that their comment was not polite and you don’t appreciate their destructive remarks. If they continue with their disrespect, then you may need to rethink that friendship and keep your distance. Hopefully they will see that the error of their ways created some distance and opt for more positive comments. 
  • Keep Your Eyes On the Prize: Remember, there was a reason that you wanted to go natural. When you experience those ‘bad days’ try to remember that. Everyone’s reason is different that made them want to go natural and leave process city..keep your eyes focused on what yours was. 
  • It’s Okay to have a bad hair day: These happen..point blank!! And they don’t just happen because you are O’Natural. It happens because it just happens, just as sometimes your outfit isn’t quite up to par, or your makeup looks like Tammy Fay Baker…it just happens! Sometimes hair, whether natural or relaxed, just will not cooperate…no matter how much you sweet talk it. It’s like a relationship, just give it a little space, don’t take it personal, make up and begin again the next day. Don’t continue to ‘nag’ it…and you’ll get along jesss fine.
Well, my lovely ladies and gents,I hope this help keep you moving towards your goal of O’Naturalism.
Happy Healthy Hair

I got this information from Domininque Goosby from All Things Natural. Dominique is a wife, mother, sister and friend with a passion for spreading knowledge  about all things O’Natural that is beneficial to the mind, body and spirit..Leaving the corporate world of Interior Design  prompted her to  focus full time on my family, homeschooling and perfecting her soon to be O’Natural product line.

Natural Hair Products for Under $10

Who doesn’t love a deal? I know I do! Editor and creator of All Things O’Natural  Dominique Goosby Harris (@allthingsonatrl) is back to school us on some awesome finds for under $10. You know what you can get for $10? Not much! That might be two gallons of gas (depending on where in the country you live) But Goosby got us and she’s about to let us know which shampoo and conditioners are great in a pinch.

When it comes to beauty, whether it’s hair care or skin care, it can put a damper in our pockets, right! In our quest to find the latest greatest products that will moisturize, boost, calm, defrizz, detangle, clean or clarify, it can become increasingly easy to succomb to product junky-ism…Soooo, I have researched some natural shampoos and conditioners that have been deemed as AWESOME in the moisture, cleansing, and detangling department, and all for under $10.

Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Shampoo and Conditioner $3.99 ea at Trader Joes…$7.20ea on Amazon.com
Shea Moisture Shampoos and Conditioners. $9.99 ea ( Target stores and Target.com)…this line is my personal favorite
**Suave Professionals Almond and Shea Butter Shampoo and Conditioner $2.50ea (Walgreens, Rite Aid, Walmart, Target)
Yes To Carrots Nourishing Shampoo and Conditioner $8.99 ea (Walgreens, Rite Aid, Target)
Yes To Cucumbers Shampoo and Conditioner $8.99 ea (Walgreens, Rite Aid, Target)
Herbal Essesnce Totally Twisted Shampoo and Conditioner $3.99 ea (Walmart, Target, Walgreen)
**Herbal Essence Hello Hydration Shampoo and Conditioner $3.99 ea (Walmart, Target, Walgreen)
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo and Conditioner $7-$8 ea. (Walmart, Target)
**Suave Naturals line$2-$3 (Walmart, Target, Rite Aid, Walgreens)
Tresemme Naturals line$4-$5 (Walmart, Target, Rite Aid, Walgreens)
V05 Tea Therapy$2 (Walmart, Target)
Organix Shampoo and Conditioner Line$7 (Walgreens, Target)
Afroveda Carrot Seed Poo Bar $7 (http://www.afroveda.com/)*
Ayurvedic Herb Shampoo Bar $8 (http://www.chagrinvalleysoapandcraft.com/) *

*Shampoo Bars are EXCELLENT for cleansing!!
**Contains sulfates
Ok, beauties…I hope you enjoy!
Happy Saving = Happy Shopping

So ladies, what are your bargain faves for natural hair?